🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar high-end establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This honour has left the family totally astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.